Summer is the best time to run barefoot through the grass. Who wants to wear shoes this time of the year? Step your bare tootsies onto the lawn and run free. I try and go shoeless as often as possible in the summer. The problem I encounter when walking free is that I can’t help but pause at every weed, investigate for insects, and scout for crabgrass. Oh well, I am a lawn nerd. What can I say?! I find them interesting. It is pretty amazing that we can grow these “crops” of grass in so many different conditions. Lawns are the anchors of our yards. They frame our homes and garden beds and provide recreation areas for our families.

Summer is a time to have fun but hopefully not at the expense of our lawns. Don’t forget about that green carpet under your bare toes. It serves you well. Give it a little TLC. Here’s what we can do this time of the year:

*Water if you can. Your lawn needs a minimum of 1 inch of water per week. If Mother Nature does not provide this, it’s time for you to step up with those bare feet and set up some sprinklers. Buy a simple rain gauge to measure how much water your lawn is getting per week or set up an empty tuna can to capture the water. It is really important to give your lawn a deep, root soaking. Instead of watering daily for a short period of time, I would much rather that you water 2 to 3 times per week for a much longer time. Most people set their sprinklers to run 20 minutes per day. Change this up and go every other day for a minimum of an hour. This way, water will seep deeper into the soil, encouraging deeper grass root growth. Water in the early part of the day to avoid water evaporation and disease promotion caused by late day watering.

*Let your lawn go dormant if you can’t water. Lawns have an amazing survival instinct to shut down and go dormant in the heat and drought of summer. The bad news is, our lawns are brown and crunchy during this time period. The good news is, they usually recover once the cooler weather of September returns. Trying to get a sleeping summer lawn to wake up with just a little bit of water in the heat, is not the best idea. It will wake up grumpy.

*Mow your lawn high. The taller your grass blades are, the softer, cool grass you have to run your toes through, and the better the chances of your lawn’s survival. A taller grass blade has more surface area and provides more shade for the grass below, therefore, the ability to retain moisture is better.

*Let the clippings fall. The grass is made up of approximately 80% water. If you leave the clippings on the lawn, they give back moisture and act as a “green” fertilizer providing a gentle Nitrogen feed for your lawn.

*Keep your blades sharp. Believe it or not, the sharper your mower blades, the softer the grass will be on your summer feet. Grass that is ragtag from dull mower blades is more vulnerable to diseases and drying out.

*1/3rd at a time. Don’t mow off more than a third of a grass blade at a time. If you mow off more, you will stress out your lawn, making it much more susceptible to burnout.

*Treat for grubs. Now is the time to apply Bayer’s Season Long Grub Control. This is no joke folks. Pretty soon grubs will be hatching and lurking beneath your feet, eating the roots of your lovely lawn. Don’t wait. Apply Bayer’s Season Long Grub Control through mid-August. Be sure to water it in or apply before a heavy rainfall. The more rain it gets, the better it works.

*Bring out the post-emergent weed controls. Pay attention to new weeds popping up and nasty crabgrass and Nutsedge. Crabgrass loves the heat and is one of the greatest summer bullies on the lawn. Use a liquid broadleaf weed control such as; Ortho’s Weed-B-Gon plus Crabgrass Control. Use Nutsedge Killer by Ortho to control that nuisance Nutsedge. It is best to use these products when temperatures are below 85 degrees.

*Give your lawn, a non-burning summer treat. Milorganite is one of my favorite products. It is organic, non-burning, and has Iron for quick green-up. Espoma makes a nice, organic Summer Revitalizer that is perfect for this summer heat. Encap’s Fast-Acting Iron is great at putting the green back into your summer lawn.

Everybody, kick off your shoes, run barefoot through your lawn, do cartwheels, have a picnic, play ball, etc. Be sure to thank your lawn for all it does for you and your family. It provides you with a fun place to play, a perfect backdrop for your garden, and a lot of oxygen to run around.

Come see us at Van Wilgen’s. We would love to help!

One of the many questions we usually start hearing this time of year is “Can I still plant in the summer? We understand why people may be nervous but the answer is an overwhelming YES!

There are a few things we should all keep in mind before we get started.

• Choose the Right Plant for the Right Place. If you have a sunny dry spot you are looking to fill, choose a tree, shrub, or perennial that will be happiest in those conditions. This dramatically improves the chances of success. If you are unsure of your requirements please see a Van Wilgen’s plant expert and we will gladly work with you.
• Proper planting technique is crucial. Dig your hole twice the width of the root ball and no deeper than its height. If you’re planting a container plant make sure to score the roots first. If you are planting a tree with a wire basket take of all the burlap as well as the basket. In both cases, this ensures the plants will develop girdled roots.
• Add Van Wilgen’s Jump Start starter fertilizer or our organic option, VW Root Boost to the hole when planting. Making sure it comes into contact with the root system. Both are formulated to get the fine feeder roots of newly planted plants into action.
• Mix Van Wilgen’s Premium Planting Mix with your existing soil. If you just added nice new soil, not incorporating any native soil, the roots will stop dead in their tracks once they outgrow the pocket of nice new soil.
• Backfill the hole with your soil mixture, tamping the soil as you fill to eliminate any air pockets. Add a 2-3” layer of mulch around the base of the plant. Make sure to leave the stem or trunk flare exposed. Over mulching can lead to its own set of problems.
• Water the base of the plant thoroughly. Avoid overhead watering. Your new plants will need a deep soaking two to three times a week for the first season, depending on water. Please visit vanwilgens.com for a watering guide that will take all the guesswork out of watering your new summer plantings.

Now it’s time to sit back and enjoy your new plantings and some warm summer weather!

Every day at work I get asked, where are your wave petunias.

As I take you all over, I ask the question. Why wave petunias?

Most of you know only of wave petunias as the ones that cascade and you don’t have to deadhead.

Back in 1995 or so wave petunias took the united states by storm. They were marketed as a gorgeous trumpet-shaped flower, very low maintenance, one in which you don’t have to deadhead. Who doesn’t love a flower you don’t have to deadhead? And so, everyone’s love affair grew with this gorgeous petunia. Now fast forward to 2006. A new variety has made its way across the country, Proven winners Supertunia.

Before I tell you the difference between these two petunias, let me explain something about both varieties.

They are self-shedding petunias. This doesn’t mean no deadheading. It simply means that the spent flower will fall off when finished blooming. This allows for the plant to always look its best. But you still need to get in there and deadhead old stems of the flowers occasionally to promote more new and healthy flowers. Just like you or I, plants also need a haircut now and then to look their best.

Now onto our original question. Wave petunia vs supertunia?

I always asked this question. Are you planting in the ground or in a container? If the answer is ground I would tell you to go with a wave petunia. The reason for this is because wave petunias are vigorous growers with a lower growth habit. So if you plant these in your yard you will get a great plant that will fill in fast and create a carpet of color.

If your answer is container I would suggest going with the supertunia. I would choose these because not only does this petunia have a great trailing habit but it also gets a little height. So not only is it a great spiller plant but it also makes a great filler plant.

IF it was my choice to choose I would always choose supertunias. They are exceptional performers that will bloom from early spring until the first frost. And the colors they offer are truly beautiful. Our favorites here at Van Wilgen’s are Supertunia bubble gum, silverberry, and Bordeaux.

Whether you choose wave or supertunias just remember, deadheading or a good haircut along with some slow-release fertilizer a few times during the season makes for a happy healthy plant.

Guess what guys?! Herbs are so easy! If you have never gardened before and you would like to make the foray into the world of gardening…go for it with herbs. Not only are they easy but they are fun, practical, delicious, and pretty. There is not a ton you need to know about herb care, thus the “easy” part. But, you know me…I can’t just say nothing! Really, I am only trying to help. Pinky swear.

A FEW TIPS FOR EASY HERB CARE:

• Your soil must be well-draining. Use a regular potting mix like Van Wilgen’s Professional Potting Mix. Don’t use heavy compost or topsoil. If you are planting the herbs in the ground, be sure to lighten up the soil especially if it currently feels like brown pavement. Use some VW Planting Mix amended into the soil to keep it loose.
• Here is a little trick that your neighbors won’t know. Add a little Greensand to the soil when you are planting your herbs. Not only is it a natural soil conditioner that helps with drainage but it gives herbs the extra mineral boost they need.
• Herbs need fertilizer but don’t go crazy. I have two favorite fertilizers I like. Trick #2: Kelp Meal is great for adding flavor to your herbs. If you love to cook and what to really get full flavor from your herbs, hit them with a little Kelp Meal. It makes them more delicious. Van Wilgen’s Root Boost is the other fertilizer I use on Herbs. It is organic and well-balanced with Kelp Meal to boot. Use Root Boost every couple of weeks applied to the herbs foliage.
• Keep herbs damp daily. I know, I know, I said that the soil needs to be well-draining with herbs. This is true but they are also happier if the soil is damp every day. Confusing huh? What I am trying to say is that in the heat of summer, herbs need to be watered daily but the soil they are planted in needs to drain efficiently.
• Don’t be afraid to harvest your herbs. The more you use them, the more herbs you get. I used to make the mistake of taking off the bottom leaves of my Basil plant before the top. Silly me. It is best to harvest herbs from the top. You can even pinch herbs back ½ way down the stem. This keeps them from getting leggy.
• Don’t buy herbs if your main desire is for flowers. Yes, herbs do flower but the flowers are rather insignificant and if you really want to use herbs for cooking, letting them flower is not the best idea. Once herbs flower and go to seed, it indicates they are at the end of their lifecycle for the season. If a flower appears, pinch it right off. By cutting off flowers, herbs live longer lives, are better for harvesting and I think even taste better.
• Give them some sunshine. Most herbs are happier in full sun (5 plus hours) so don’t deprive them. Although, I do find that herbs in my yard do a little better if not all of the sun is afternoon soon. Some herbs can handle less sunlight like chives and mint.
• Only plant mint in pots. I love mint. Don’t get me wrong, making my own summer cocktails with Mojito Mint is so fun but mint in the ground is aggressive. If you are looking for an herb to take over a garden bed, then mint is your herb.

My final tip for easy herb care is just to have fun. Mix up herbs with annual flowers. Plant them in cute, little pots on your windowsill, fill a window box with herbs and flowers for easy harvesting, cook with them, and drink with them. If you are a beginning gardener or well-seasoned, herbs are for everyone.

Come see us at Van Wilgen’s. We would love to help!

SHOPPING LIST:

*VW Potting Mix

*Greensand

*Kelp Meal

*VW Root Boost

Our top-secret formula for keeping our planters and baskets looking hot all summer long… has been leaked!

It’s only mid-June, but already people are wondering what we do to keep our annual container mixes looking so good all season long. Are we constantly replanting with fresh annuals? Have we simply set the growth regulators to “Awesome?” Is it true what they say about singing to your plants? Let me assure you, with all the pots we have planted on the property the answer is MUCH simpler and much less ridiculous than any of those!

Whether we’re looking at one of our Super Bloom petunias or a more elaborate cone hanging basket overflowing with a variety of annuals, one key thing we’ve been doing since day one is even watering. This means watering more or less once a day, and not letting the plants dry out. If you’ve picked up some of our Slow Release All Purpose Fertilizer, the little black pellets, and you’ve added it to your annual container mixes, even watering also means that every time you water your plant it gets some fertilizer! Those little black pellets break down just a little bit each time you water. Your plants are alive just like you and me, and just like us, they need plant food! My philosophy with annuals, especially potted annuals, is that since they’re not coming back year after year, we want to enjoy them to the fullest extent while we still have them! So call me over the top, but not only do I put a slow-release fertilizer in all of my container mixes, but I follow up weekly with our Bloom Booster fertilizer. This combo is going to ensure you get the most bloom-for-your-buck out of your annual container mixes! With all the crazy floriferous new growth your annuals will be pushing out with this secret formula, you may find yourself having to cut them back around July. That’s right- just like your plants need food, they also need hair cuts. a little trim will promote more branching and more flowering- this translates into fuller bigger plants with even more flowers! Now that you’ve heard our secret for hot container mixes all summer long, try it for yourselves! Come see us in the greenhouse, Darlene loves demonstrating how to cut back annuals using my hair as a prop, and as always we are always more than happy to answer questions and help make sure your plants are the best they can be all season long!

Orchids have become a houseplant fan favorite, and rightfully so. The indoor plants add a touch of the exotic to any home and bloom for weeks at a time. Plus, orchids are typically easy to care for and relatively low-maintenance once they are established.

Here are three ways to keep your orchid happy and healthy!

3 Secrets to Orchid Success

1) Light & Temerature

Orchids love light, yet direct sun can often burn their delicate leaves and flowers. Avoid damaging orchids, by placing them near a window with a sheer curtain. Sun rays will seep through the curtain, providing your orchid with just the right amount of light. Or, keep your orchid in a well-lit area in your home to completely avoid the risk of sun damage. While they do love warm temperatures during the day; they also like to keep cool at night, so let your orchid chill at the end of the day in a cooler room. In the summer, if the heat breaks and temperatures drop below 65 degrees Fahrenheit at night, you can place your orchid outside to cool. Just be sure to remove it from direct sunlight before morning.

2) Water

Water is probably where most of you have issues with your orchids. When we say water, we do NOT mean ice cubes. Sometimes when you buy an orchid they come with a tag that says to use one ice cube, but please, throw that tag away and don’t do that. My way of explaining it to most of you is, “how would you feel if you were thirsty and I gave you an ice cube to put on your lips”. First off you wouldn’t get enough water at any given time to quench your thirst. And most important you couldn’t keep it on your lips because it’s too cold. If it’s too cold for your lips it’s too cold for the orchid’s airy roots. If you think about it, orchids don’t have ice cubes in the rain forest where they grow naturally. So instead, just take your orchid to the sink let the water run completely throughout, let drain, and put it back in its favorite spot. Now, relax and enjoy its beauty.

3) Proper Potting

You won’t need to re-pot your orchid very often, typically once a year. Start with Espoma’s Organic Orchid Mix and then plant your orchid in plastic growing pots. These containers have great drainage, avoiding problems related to overwatering.

If you’d like a more stylish pot to add to your décor, simply place the plastic container inside the decorative one.

Follow these simple tips and your orchid will produce beautiful flowers you’ll be enjoying for years to come!

We have seen the shadow of Spring! The white of winter snow will soon be a summer color. While you plan your spring planting, here are a couple of ideas you can add to your garden to attract summer butterflies!

Butterflies like heat and bright light. If your garden is sunny, you’re halfway home! Butterflies are attracted to reds and purples and butterflies see the best in the bright sunny garden. The sun also provides warmth and heat, as butterflies need this energy for their metabolism. Focus your efforts on the sunny side.

Add herbs to your planting scheme! If you have an herb garden already, you’re on your way! Adding ‘umbelifers’ like parsley, cilantro, dill, and fennel are great plants that provide spice for you and food for caterpillars. Fennel and dill can be added to your vegetable beds and even added to your perennial borders. All of the oregano are great additions to your garden because their flowers provide nectar to many species of butterflies! The flowers of catnips and catmints also attract a wide range of butterflies! Be sure to plant extra for yourself and your caterpillars.

The simple addition of a Buddleia/butterfly bush will give your garden a “butterfly soda fountain!” Butterfly bushes produce three times more nectar than any other summer flower! With a Buddleia, you will get a summer’s worth of flowers and a magnet that will attract the greatest number of butterflies. There are many varieties to pick from, with different heights available, making Buddleias the perfect choice for every garden. All varieties are fabulous at attracting butterflies and other pollinators. Adding one to your herb garden will also direct butterflies to your host plants and give you that classic “colonial garden” look.

Hey, we got some notorious bugs comin’ at ya this spring. Keep your eyes open for these trouble makers. Here is the line-up:

THE 4-LINED PLANT BUG is tearing it up on Catmint, Montauk Daisies, Basil, Salvia, Hydrangeas and many more.

Damage: Usually you see the damage before you see this speedy artist. Look for irregular, depressed circles on leaves. Circles are small and dark in color. If many feeding spots are close together, they tend to coalesce and turn into one large, brown area. Leaves may curl, dry up and look plain ole’ ugly. I’ve seen them destroy an entire Montauk Daisy. Ugh!

Insect: This tricky shapeshifter looks completely different as a young nymph than as an adult. Unfortunately, these bad guys do damage at all stages. They are fast and hard to see. The young nymphs are tiny and reddish/orangish in color. They have tiny little wing pads that show a little black color. The grown adults do not set a good example for their young ones. These limey yellow and black striped adults keep sucking the good stuff out of our plants and injecting bad stuff as they feed.

Control:

*Organic – Pyrethrins work the best to knock down this thug. You can use straight Pyrethrin or you can find it in Japanese Beetle Killer or End-All.

*Conventional – There are so many choices that work but my go-to products are Rose & Flower Insect Killer or Eight.

*Be sure to cut back affected plants in the fall and throw clippings into the garbage. They lay their eggs in these plants. Eggs overwinter and then the bad bugs hatch and begin their party.

THE ROSE SAWFLY is wreckin’ it on our beautiful rose bushes. In particular, it loves the Knock Out roses.

Damage: These bad dudes are sneaky and just eat the green layer of the rose leaf, top, and bottom. The leaves end up looking like skeletons of themselves. They become tan-colored window panes that you can see right through. Eventually, these flimsy window panes break and become holes, often mistaken for a disease.

Insect: It’s the babies of the Rose Sawfly that are the real trouble makers. These little slug-like characters use camouflage to go about their dirty business. You can barely see these light yellowish-green insects creeping around your rose leaves. Their head is usually orange and the whole body is just about a ½ inch long.

Control:

*Organic – The best product is Captain Jacks Dead Bug Brew. Not many organics are labeled for Sawfly larvae. I also like End-All & Insecticidal Soap. They will give you good control with direct contact. Don’t be fooled by these little buggers and try and use BT. BT is only good for caterpillars. This is not a caterpillar. I repeat this is not a caterpillar.

*Conventional – Bayer Rose & Flower Insect Killer is my go-to product, however, Eight also does a great job.

THE GYPSY MOTH is putting on a big show this year, showing up on every Oak, Maple, Rose, and even Blueberry.

Damage: They chomp through every part of the leaf, tearin’ it up. Little pieces of leaves fall to the ground as they eat it to nothing, bite by bite.

Insect: The Gypsy Moth Caterpillar is the culprit. When it first hatches in the spring it looks small, grayish-black, and fuzzy. As it grows, it gets fancier with blue and red spots. Don’t be fooled by this handsome caterpillar. He is up to no good!

Control:

*Organic – BT is great when the Gypsy Moth Caterpillar is small. As the caterpillar gets bigger switch to Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew. It will take them out.

*Conventional – Eight with the hose-end sprayer works great. For smaller areas, Rose and Flower Insect Killer will take them down.

*Note – Banding the trees with Paper Tree Wrap & Tree Banding Gum will catch those culprits as they travel up and down the tree.

Holla’ back at these bad bugs. Don’t let them take over and destroy your favorite plants.

Come see us at Van Wilgen’s. We would love to help!

SHOPPING LIST:

*Pyrethrin by Bonide

*Japanese Beetle Killer by Bonide

*Captain Jack’s Dead Bug Brew

*End-All by Safer

*Insecticidal Soap by Safer

*BT

*Eight by Bonide

*Paper Tree Wrap

*Tree Banding Gum

It’s hard to believe that we are talking about too much water given a year ago all we talked about was how to water! What a difference a year makes. The symptoms plants show when too dry and too wet mimic each other closely. Here are some tips to help you determine if your plants are showing signs of too much water.

• Check the soil before watering. It is best to water when the soil is moist to dry to the touch. If your soil is wet and heavy your plant is telling you it has enough water for now.
• Wilting leaves. If the foliage is drooping and the soil is wet that is a sign of overwatering. At the first sign of wilting our first instinct is to hurry up and water. Do some investigating to be sure before making the problem worse by giving it more water. When in doubt stick your finger in the dirt and you will be able to tell how wet it is.
• Brown leaves. When a plant is experiencing too much water its foliage will turn brown from the tips first.
• If you see yellow leaves, poor new growth, and leaf drop this is a very good indication of overwatering.
• Check the roots. If it’s a potted plant this is easy and a little tougher when we are talking about plants in the landscape. If the roots are grey, black, brown, or foul-smelling this is a sure sign of rot root. If your plant has root rot sometimes the best practice is to remove the plant so the fungus doesn’t spread to other plants, so take precautions to not let your plants get too wet.

Jason Scire, Nursery Manager