Let’s face facts- there are way too many great ornamental grasses to hope to limit yourself to one type. Panicum, bluestems, miscanthus, Pennisetum- the list goes on and on. But after you’ve gone crazy and put sixteen of every type in your yard, how the heck do you tell them apart? It’s actually easier than you’d think.

Pennisetum, or the fountain grasses, have a classic, bottlebrush seed head that almost looks like a rabbit’s foot or pipe cleaner. As an added bonus, these will produce a seed head earlier than any other large growing ornamental grass.

Panicum, or switchgrass, is one of our native grasses. Its seed head is airy, loose, and almost transparent until you’re close by. Fun fact- One of the most popular varieties, Ruby Ribbons, was bred at UConn and features a great mix of purple and green colors to the grass.

Bluestems fall into two pretty self-explanatory categories- the dwarf little bluestem and the larger growing big bluestem. Both produce a long, wiry seed head that opens sporadically down the line while having the added benefit of being one of the only grasses to have vibrant purple to red fall color after the first frost.

Miscanthus, or maiden grasses, are often referred to as Zebra grasses, as many cultivars have a distinctive yellow stripe either horizontally or vertically along the grass. The seed heads have a braided texture and bright golden color that sways in the wind.

Muhly grass is the most unique of the bunch. Our current favorite, “Fast Forward,” has bright pink seed heads, but any and all varieties will produce a unique seed head that resembles a thick cloud of smoke and holds onto morning dew to create a shimmering show at sunup every day.

Will O’Hara

Perennial Manager

Your lawn loves you. Do you love it back? Your lawn lets you walk on it, play ball on it, picnic on it, and just take plain old advantage of it. What do you do for your lawn? Do you show it any love? There are so many ways to care for your lawn but this tip is all about fall organic lawn care.

The best way to care for your lawn organically is to have a thick stand of turf. This means to seed and overseed and overseed again. Adding new seed to an existing lawn reduces bare patches. Bare patches set your lawn up for failure. The bare patches are where bully weeds take over. They show no mercy once they take hold. The best way to avoid these bullies is to add new grass seed to the bald spots. The greatest organic weed control is thick grass.

Keep your lawn mowed high all season long except for that very last mow of the year. If your keep your lawnmower set to a minimum of 3 inches, you are mowing as “organically” as possible. A lawn that is left high can withstand drought much better than a short lawn and also keeps weeds suppressed. The last mow of the year is an exception to this rule. This is one of the only times I recommend mowing the lawn shorter. A 2-inch height would be perfect. You do not want your fall lawn going into the winter in need of a haircut. Keeping it shorter for the last mow, reduces the chances of winter diseases such as snow mold.

Organic fall fertilization shows your lawn tons of love. I cannot stress enough the importance of fertilizing not only at the end of the summer but late into the fall. At the end of the summer, your lawn needs some recovery time. Fertilizer helps it to do this. I mentioned the last mow before. This is also a very important time to put down a fall lawn fertilizer. Once your lawn stops actively growing up top, it still grows down below. This is where the fertilizer comes into play. It pushes root growth and stores what it cannot use in its root system to use immediately in the spring.

A great way to think organically is to think about the soil. In particular, the soil pH is key. If your pH is off, then your lawn just won’t be happy no matter how much fertilizer or seed you throw at it. Test your pH. Pick up a DIY pH kit, bring your soil to me to test at Van Wilgen’s, or bring it to the Ct Ag Station. If your pH is low/acidic, you need to apply lime. Lawns need a pH between 6.8 to 7.2 to feel their best. Any other number and lawns shut down. Let’s keep our lawn naturally happy with Limestone.

Is your soil compact? If you want your lawn to thrive, it needs room to stretch its’ roots and absorb water. If your soil is like brown pavement, your lawn will always struggle. Aerate your lawn every 2 years. While you are at it, throw down a little more seed. Oh, did I say seed already?! I know I sound like a broken record sometimes but I just want the best for you and your lawn.

So, show your lawns some organic love this fall. I promise the love they return by providing you and your family oxygen and leisure space will be well worth it.

Come see us at Van Wilgen’s. We would love to help.

SHOPPING LIST:

*Van Wilgen’s Grass Seed

*Espoma’s Organic All Season Lawn Food

*Espoma’s Organic Fall Lawn Food

*Milorganite

*pH Testing Kit

*Soil Doctor Lawn Lime

It’s always a good day for the team when we can take a minute to talk about some of our favorite plants. Fall is a fantastic time to plant, and an event better time to admire the landscape. We put pen to paper and came up with a baker’s dozen of our favorite Autumn Flowers and Fruits. If you don’t see yours let us know, we love to know what you are planting!

Beauty Berry

Winter Berry

Sweet Autumn Clematis

Sedum

Perennial Plumbago

Dogwood

Snow Berry

Lespidiza

Butterfly Weed

Crab Apple

Hydrangea

Knock Out and Drift Roses

Fall Anenome

(Fall Bulb Planting & Care)

Tip toe through the Tulips, dilly-dally in the Daffodils, fraternize with the Fritillarias, take a hiatus in the hyacinths, snooze in the snowdrops, cruise through the crocus, be at peace in the Alliums…hmmm…I know I forgot one…oh, and idle in the Iris. Doesn’t all of that sound so nice and relaxing?! A little corny, I know, but nonetheless, relaxing. In the spring, this could be you but only if you do some work now. Yes, folks, you need to get your hands a little dirty this fall for lots of enjoyment this spring.

We have a bevy of beautiful bulb choices and we are so close to perfect bulb planting weather. Typically when nighttime temperatures dip down consistently between 40 and 50 degrees, it is bulb planting time. Let’s get going!

*Pick out your favorite bulbs. One of each, right?! It is just so hard to choose.

*It is still a little warm so tuck your bulbs into the refrigerator for a couple of weeks. Yes folks, the refrigerator. Not right next to the fruit. Fruit releases rotting gasses. Ew. The cold refrigerator will help the bulbs harden off and withstand winter better.

*When night temperatures dip into the 40’s now it’s time to plant. Yay!

*Get a good bag of soil like Van Wilgen’s Premium Planting Mix or some compost. Most bulbs like the soil rich. Alliums might be the exception.

*Mix Bulb-Tone or Bone Meal into each planting hole. Use an inorganic fertilizer like Van Wilgen’s Slow Release, if animals digging up your bulbs is an issue.

*Dig a hole that is 3X’s deeper than the height of the bulb. i.e. If the bulb is 2 inches high, dig a hole that is 6 inches deep. This will ensure that the soil is loose enough for healthy root development.

*Plant bulbs 2X’s deeper than the height of the bulb. i.e. If the bulb is 2 inches high, plant it 4 inches deep.

*If squirrels, voles, and chipmunks are an issue, add some deterrents. Perma-Till/Volebloc is a course material that permanently discourages these critters. I Must Garden’s Mole & Vole Repellent is really helpful mixed into the soil with the bulbs.

*Water. One time a week is usually sufficient for bulbs.

*Take a winter’s nap.

*Be patient.

In the spring you will be excited to see the beautiful metamorphosis of your bulbs into beautiful flowers! For now, happy fall planting.

Come see us at Van Wilgen’s. We would love to help!

IF ONLY TREES & SHRUBS COULD TALK TO US,

WE COULD LEARN SO MUCH MORE!

If only trees & shrubs could talk to us. Oh, the things they would tell us! They could let us know when they need some water when they have had too much to drink, if an insect or disease is bothering them, and especially if they are hungry. We could be much better caregivers to our natural friends if only they could speak to us. Ah, but they do. They let us know when they are happy by becoming big, full, lush, and colorful. They also communicate their aches and pains to us through stunted growth, yellowing leaves, oozing sap, and so many other ways. If we pay close attention, we actually might be able to hear what they are saying. But, sometimes we just can’t! A lot of gardening is just trial and error. It’s often about just going for it, experimenting, and seeing what works.

If you know me, then by now, you know I am a huge fan of fertilizing trees and shrubs. Some might even say I am a fertilizer pusher! It is only because I want what is best for your plants. If trees & shrubs could speak or even yell at us, they might shout…”Gimme some food!” Everyone in the plant world knows that early spring and spring are excellent times to give your trees & shrubs a healthy dose of fertilizer but do we all realize how truly important it is to fertilize them in the fall? I KNEW IT WAS IMPORTANT BUT NOT NEARLY AS MUCH AS I THOUGHT! I learn new things every day.

I always knew that it was important to give our trees & shrubs a half dose of fertilizer in the fall to help them recover from the heat and drought stress of summer. I also knew that the reason we suggested feeding them at ½ the amount we do in the spring is to promote recovery but not encourage too much new growth before winter. We always thought that fertilizing our trees & shrubs late in the fall would make it so they could not harden off and get damaged from winter weather. WELL GUESS WHAT GUYS? THIS IS NOT EXACTLY TRUE ANYMORE!

The new truth is that we can fertilize trees & shrubs late into the fall. We can fertilize them a full month after the first killing frost. We can fertilize them after all the leaves have fallen off the trees. Yes, guys, this is the new thing I learned and wanted to pass onto you. Logically, this makes so much sense. I have been encouraging customers to put down Fall Lawn Food after their last mow of the season for years, why not trees & shrubs too! The rationale is…trees & shrubs significantly slow growth in late fall. After they lose their leaves, they have practically stopped growing up top for the year, but they do not stop growing down below. It is not only okay but it is great to give trees and shrubs the right fertilizer late in the fall. The food you give them at this time will just promote wonderful, deep root growth and store itself inside the root system so it is immediately available to the plant right away in the spring. How cool is that you guys!

So, here I go again, pushing fertilizer on you. We learn new things every day. Fall fertilizer for trees & shrubs is more important than we ever imagined. So go for it! Your plants are talking to you. Listen.

Come see us at Van Wilgen’s. We would love to help!

SHOPPING LIST:

*Espoma Tree-Tone

*Espoma Holly-Tone

*Espoma Plant –Tone

*Van Wilgen’s Control Release

The best time to plant a tree or shrub is in the fall. A well-placed tree will cool your home in summer and block cold winter winds. Not to mention that the aesthetics can increase your home’s curb appeal and add value.

Even though you may be prepping for winter, you can still set your new tree or shrub up for success by planting it in a spot where it can thrive for generations to come.

Decide on the right tree for your yard and needs before you plant. Choose a tree based on the characteristics you want — shade, wildlife habitat, privacy or to block the wind.

6 Easy Steps to Plant a Tree or Shrub

You’ve found the right tree and the perfect spot, now it’s time for the fun part. It doesn’t take much to plant a tree — just a shovel, tape measure, and hose. To help your new tree survive, you’ll need to put in the extra effort. Use these tips to help your new tree to grow.

1. Size up your yard for the perfect spot. Take the amount of sunlight, ground vegetation, and hazards like wires or pipes into consideration. Plant at least 15 feet away from your house, sidewalks, driveways, and other trees. Allocate enough space in the yard for your new tree to grow. Consider its mature height, crown spread, and root space. A fully grown tree will take up much more space than your tiny sapling. Look up to make sure a fully grown tree won’t interfere with anything overhead.
2. Start digging. Dig a hole twice as wide and the same depth as the root ball. Then, arrange the tree at the same depth it was growing before and fill half the hole with compost, Van Wilgen’s Premium Planting Mix, or Espoma Organic All Purpose Garden Soil.
3. Give trees a boost. Mix in organic fertilizer with the soil. For a trunk diameter up to 1.5 inches, use 4 pounds of Tree-tone. If the trunk is 2-3”, use 4 pounds of Tree-tone per inch. So, if your tree trunk is 2.5 inches, use 10 pounds of Tree-tone. And, for tree trunks over 3 inches, use 5 pounds of Espoma Tree-Tone per inch.
4. Stake the tree. Use two opposing, flexible ties to stake the tree. Place ties on the lower half of the tree to allow trunk movement.
5. Help your new tree become established by watering it weekly for the first two years.
6. Finish with mulch. Use 2 ½ -3 inches of shredded hardwood or leaf mulch around the plant. Do not over-mulch up to the trunk or “volcano” mulch. This can kill the tree.

Planting a tree is an investment in your home and your community that will pay off for years to come.

There is absolutely no debate the most asked for plant in the tree and shrub yard are hydrangeas! The great thing about hydrangeas is there is a perfect type for each customer’s specific needs. Here is a list of some of our favorites here at Van Wilgen’s.

Bobo Hydrangea

This little cutie has been around for a few years and quickly went to the top of our list. A compact grower that matures to 3’x3’. It produces dense white cone-shaped flowers from summer into the fall. As flowers pass, the color changes to a rosy pink. Flowers are perfect for cutting. The best part of this little guy is it flowers on new wood and thrives in full sun. Extremely cold hardy.

Bloomstruck Hydrangea

The newest addition to the Endless Summer Collection. Bloomstruck is a no-brainer! It produces pink flowers in sweet soil and purple-blue flowers in acid soil. The red stems of the plant give great contrast against the green foliage. It will grow to about 4-5’ tall and about as wide. It prefers morning sun and afternoon shade. It flowers on new and old wood so be careful when you prune. Very heat tolerant as well.

Little Quickfire Hydrangea

Without a doubt one of my favorites! This plant has a great compact habit for a small area. The flowers are more open than other panicle forms, emerging white then changing to pinkish-red. The stems of the plant are a deep red that gives excellent contrast to the deep green leaves. My favorite quality is its scarlet red fall color of foliage. Prefers full sun. Flowers on new wood. Very cold hardy.

Hydrangea Tiny Tuff Stuff

What a performer! It is a variety of mountain hydrangea so that means it’s about as cold-hardy as it gets! You will be treated to lace cap flowers that will be blue to purple in acid soil. Handles an unbelievable amount of shade and will still flower. Great for container plantings as well because of its hardiness. Compact grower.

Original Endless Summer Hydrangea

The one that started it all! Flowers will be pink or blue depending on soil ph. Flowers very heavily. Grows to 5’x5’. Flowers emerge on new and old wood. Performs best in afternoon shade. Great for mass plantings.

Our friends at Proven Winners have created a Hydrangea chart to help if yours isn’t flowering, Click below to learn more.

https://www.provenwinners.com/sites/provenwinners.com/files/pdf/hydrangeas_demystified_2015.pdf

The Eastern Redbud ( Cercis canadensis ) is a spring-flowering tree, native to the northeast. Its delicate lavender-pink flowers emerge late in April before the foliage develops and continue to sparkle into mid-May. Clusters of tiny, fairy-like flowers cling to the branches, covering the tree in a soft purple haze with charming heart-shaped foliage developing as the flowers begin to fade. Surprisingly, it is not as commonly recognized as the flowering Cherry or the ornamental pear, but it’s defiantly a show stopper! Every spring as the blossoms begin to unfold several curious customers stop by the garden center and ask “What is that tree with the beautiful purple flowers?… ”

The Redbud tree is one of my personal favorites. The original species is described as a small understory tree growing between 20 and 30 feet tall and wide. It naturally grows in woodland areas under a canopy of tall deciduous trees that lose their leaves every fall. Many exciting new cultivars have been developed over the last few years including dwarf varieties, weeping specimens, and those with colorful leaves such as burgundy, peachy-yellow, and variegated green and white.

There is a magnificent old maple tree in my neatly packed, urban neighborhood about two houses away that stands roughly 60 feet tall. Despite the fact that it is not very close to me, it provides cooling shade from the strong summer sun from late morning into the afternoon. This type of available light is often referred to as “high shade”. There is a limited amount of direct sunlight but the area is still very bright and opened.

So the Eastern Redbud will be one of the first plants installed in my brand new garden. Some varieties of Redbud do best in full sun. Others prefer some shade like our original native. Because I am working in a small space I have decided to go with a weeping variety that will mature at about 10 feet tall and 8 feet wide. Redbud trees grow pretty quickly and this one will serve as a focal point on one corner of my patio.

After much deliberation, I chose “Pink Heartbreaker”, a weeping variety with a strong upright branching habit that cascades in a rambling, informal, way. Just right for my casual cottage garden!

The entire garden was amended with compost and Gypsum to improve my clay soil as I mentioned in my last story but we did mix in some “Van Wilgen’s planting mix” and of course “Jump Start” to get my new baby off and running with vigorous root development for a good foundation.

As you can see in the photo, it already looks great and I am confident that it will just get better and better but I am really looking forward to the flowers next spring that I think will look fantastic glowing against the background of my neighbors Blue Spruce.

I have several ideas for planting under my Redbud with colorful shade tolerant perennials, more about that next time!

Happy Gardening!

Cecile

Large, beautiful hydrangeas are a great addition to any landscape. Their bold colors make them perfect for freshly cut or dried flowers. Getting off to the right start in the right location is the difference between a hydrangea bush that blooms for years and one that never does.

Get the beautiful blooms you desire with these hydrangea planting tips.

Where should I plant my hydrangea? Choose a spot with moist, well-drained soil. Hydrangeas can grow from 4’ to 12’ in height depending on the variety, so plan accordingly. Most hydrangeas benefit from some shade, especially in hot climates. Too much shade means your hydrangea may not grow flowers.

Check the plant tag to find out how many hours of sun your hydrangea should be getting per day. Panicle hydrangeas tolerate more sun than do other species. And if you live in a region where it gets seriously hot, your hydrangea will need more shade than those grown in colder zones. Hydrangeas in southern climates especially need frequent watering to tolerate that stress.

If you’ve noticed your hydrangea has stopped blooming in recent years, it may be time to evaluate the location. Make sure hydrangeas are still receiving enough daily light and check the growth of nearby trees. Consider moving the hydrangea to a sunnier spot.

Get Ready to Plant. Once you’ve found the perfect spot, dig a hole twice as large as the hydrangea’s container. Mix in an organic starter plant food, such as Bio-tone Starter Plus, to keep roots strong. Add 1” of compost or Espoma Organic All-purpose Garden Soil to help with nutrients and drainage. Place the hydrangea in the hole at about the same height it was in the container, spreading its roots wide. Backfill the hole with soil and top with 2-3” of mulch.

Water Well. After you plant, water the hydrangea until a puddle forms. Water twice a week for a month. Then water deeply once a week until fall.

The Finishing Touch. Feed blue hydrangeas with Holly-tone to keep the soil acidic. Otherwise, opt for Flower-tone. For the best hydrangea care, feed 2-3 times throughout the growing season, which is spring until fall.

Small-scale gardening is a hot topic! Many great books have been written on the subject and growers are developing more and more dwarf trees and compact shrubs to fit those needs. Baby boomers are “downsizing” and Millennials are moving into their first homes, creating a growing demand for ornamental and edible plants that fit comfortably into these smaller spaces.

My personal interest in small-scale gardening is especially keen as I fall into the latter category of those of us who have sold the large family home and are moving into smaller more manageable properties. I purchased a new home about a year ago. A smaller house, on a much smaller lot with a challenging irregular shape. I spent a lot of time over the last several months observing the conditions of the yard and planning the design I would like to implement. I can’t wait to start planting!

My back yard is roughly about 1200 square feet and late last fall I had a patio and walkway installed reducing the potential planting area to under 1000sq. My goal is to create a cozy backyard retreat with small trees, shrubs, perennials, and annuals, along with a small sitting area to enjoy a cup of tea in the morning and maybe a late afternoon drink.

Because the space is small and I am hoping to keep maintenance at a moderate level I am completely eliminating the lawn. There are no trees in my small space. It’s currently a blank page other than the pavers but there are several large maples surrounding the yard creating a high shade situation that will influence the plants I choose. Before I can start putting them in the ground however I will have to deal with the soil.

I have designed and planted many gardens but this may be the most challenging soil I have ever worked with. Bright orange clay! Clay soil is composed of very fine particles. It absorbs water very slowly and holds it for a very long time. It can also become very compacted, making it difficult for plant roots to penetrate the soil.

I know that I need to improve the soil and adding organic matter is the first step. But because I have only a little experience with clay I stopped by the main store and had a chat with Stacy. Compost was something we both agreed would be beneficial but she gave me an additional tip that I was unaware of. Gypsum, she said would help reduce compaction, improve drainage, decrease acidity and eliminate soil salts. Sounds good to me!

With all the rain we’ve had I will have to wait a while until my soil dries up to begin the process. It’s never a good idea to work with clay when it’s wet because that can add to the compaction problems. Once the compost and gypsum have been turned into the soil I can finally start the planting process.

I have big plans for my small-scale garden and I would love to share them with you as my cozy retreat begins to take shape. Choosing the right plant for the right location can be challenging but that’s just part of the fun!

Cecile Bardinelli, Guilford Garden Mart Manager