We always do our best to let you know what’s new, and when you can expect to see the plants you’ve been looking for. To make it a little easier this year, we’ve compiled a list of some of our most asked about plants, and when you might be able to get them here at the Garden Center. Keep in mind that most of these plants are very weather and temperature-dependent, so sometimes a shipment may have to be delayed.
Don’t see the plant you’re looking for? Just give us a call. We’re always here to help!
Check back often to get the latest dates and ETAs.
- Citrus, Figs, Olives, Madrid Purple Lavender: Last week of April/First Week of May
- Summer Annuals: Million Bells, Lantana, Torenia, Verbena Black-Eyed Susan Vine, Lysimachia, Lobelia, Dahlietias, Bacopa, Salvia, Cosmos, Portulaca, Snap Dragons, Sweet Potato Vine, etc. will all start to show up around Mid to late April. Many of these items will need to be kept above 50 degrees.
- Cool Weather Annuals (can take occasional cool nights to 40-45 degrees: Petunia, Snapdragons, Stock, Alyssum, Geranium, Osteo Daisy, Nemesia, Marigold, Dusty Miller
- Warm Weather Annuals that like it HOT. Waiting to plant these will make them happy: New Guinea Impatiens, Portulaca, Vinca rosea, lantana, Cuphea, Ageratum, Gazania, Celosia, Cosmos, Zinnia, Scaevola, Dahlia, Begonia, Persian Shield, Penta’s, Angelonia, Sweet Potato Vine
- Geraniums: Mid-April…needs to stay above 45 degrees to keep outside
- New Guinea Impatiens: First week/second week of May needs to be above 60 degrees at night.
- Herbs: Mid-March Some herbs can handle cooler night to 40 degrees, but Basil especially needs to wait till warmer nights about 60 degrees
- Cool Weather veggies like Lettuce, Peas, Cabbage, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Brussel Sprouts Chard, Arugula, Kale, etc. will be available end of March/Beginning of April.
- Warm Weather Veggies like Tomatoes, Eggplant, Cucumber, Peppers, Squash, will start to be available in the middle/end of April however they need to be grown in a greenhouse or kept warm till the middle/end of May. These veggies do not want to go below 60 degrees.
- Tropicals: Hibiscus, Mandevilla, Gardenia, Palms, Jasmine, Bird of Paradise, Alocasia, etc. We will start to see Tropicals arriving in the middle of April and continuing through the Middle of May however they do not want to go below 50 degrees at night. The warmer the better.
- Big palms Closer to Beginning of May
- Roses – last week of April
- Grasses – limited after Mother’s Day, full selection by Father’s Day.
- Hostas & Ferns – limited by the first week of May, full between Mother’s Day and Memorial Day
- Groundcover flats – Third week/ Last week of April
- Peonies – First week of April… they will be sprouted and growing out of the pot but not bud and bloom till closer to May.
TREES AND SHRUBS
- Hydrangea: (dormant) week of 3/29. We will not have bud and bloom Hydrangeas till later in May. They do not like cold nights. Because of the low temps for Thursday and Friday night, hydrangea macrophylla won’t land until next week.
- Butterfly Bush: (dormant) Beginning of April. Again, we will not have bud and bloom butterfly bush till later in May. They do not like cold nights
- Lilacs: Mid-April/Third week of April depending on a cold night in the forecast
- Rose of Sharon: Mid to end of May… they like it WARM!
- Spring Flowering deciduous Shrubs: Spirea, viburnum, winterberry, deutzia, weigela, etc. week of 3/29
- Privet Hedge: 1st wave 3/25. 2nd wave week of 3/29
- Japanese Holly: Friday 3/26
- Dogwood trees: 1st wave 3/23 2nd wave week of 3/29
- Green Giant Arbs: The first wave landed 3/22, 2nd wave 3/29, 3rd wave week of 3/29 or 4/5.
- Large Evergreens: White Pine, Blue Spruce, and Norway Spruce week of 3/29
- Jr. Giant Arbs: #5 potted will be available mid-spring (VW GROWN 10 gal ready mid to later summer)
- Blue Holly: 3/24
- Blue Mist Shrub: arriving summer (June)
- Specimen Trees: Week of 3/29 and 4/5.
- Cherry Laurel: week of 3/29
- Coral Bark: Maple’s week of 3/29.
- It can be cut starting the week of 3/22 and is available for drop-ships. Sod will still have dormant color.
- The Garden Center will have sod most likely mid-April, Maybe sooner if the weather stays warm and it greens up.
Spring is here! There’s no better time to get outside and get your hands in the dirt!
Now is the ideal time to plant some cool weather vegetables and herbs. Go time is when you can work the ground and the daytime temperature is approximately 40 degrees during the day.
Early spring cold hearty vegetables:
- All lettuce
- Swiss chard
- · Radish
Early spring cold hearty herbs:
- All mints
As spring slowly turns into summer it is now time to think about planting your summer vegetables.
While there’s no set time as to when to plant these, here are a few rules of thumb to follow:
- Do not plant until the last chance of frost has gone by, usually the last full moon in May.
- Soil temperature needs to be 65 to 70 degrees. There’s an old saying that if you did a hole and you can’t comfortably put your hand in that hole and leave it there without pulling it away because of the cold then you shouldn’t be planting your plants just yet.
- Early isn’t always better. Your plant doesn’t start growing faster just because you planted it early, it’s just the opposite.
Your plant will just sit there and not grow at all until the soil temperature warms up. And by chance, the plant gets hits with colder temps you can risk losing the plant altogether or at the very least cut your yield in half.
And I don’t know about you, but I don’t want to lose any of those delicious summer vegetables.
Don’t forget to feed your plants all summer long as they will be feeding you!
Spring has officially sprung! As you start to spend more time outside, you’re bound to notice your plants waking up and pushing out fresh new growth for the season, which leaves many of us wondering, “should I be pruning that right now?” We’ve rounded up some of our most asked about plants to put to rest the age-old question; to prune or not to prune?
Hydrangeas are a tricky set and one we get asked about most often. Your panicle hydrangeas can be cut back as much as 50 percent right now, but your traditional hydrangeas should be left alone. Don’t prune them now but rather tackle them at the end of the season to make sure you get the flowering you want. Wait until they flush through growth in the spring and then do your pruning and deadheading after that.
Dogwood & Crabapple Trees
The same goes for plants like dogwoods and crabapple trees. If you have a broken branch or some other minor trim to make, you can do that at any time and it won’t impact the plant, but you’ll want to save your serious pruning for later.
For your spring and summer flowering shrubs, like lilacs, rhododendrons, and azaleas, you’ll want to wait for them to start to bloom before pruning.
It’s still a little too early for evergreens and hedges. If you sheer them back now and we get a cold snap, you could damage the plant.
For larger evergreens, like white pines, the timing for pruning needs to be very specific. Wait until you see them flushing out new growth – what we call “candles” – to take on the task. You can pinch off the candles completely for a heavier sheer or cut them in half for a more subtle look.
With all pruning, the amount to trim depends on the size of the plant, but as a good rule of thumb, you want to prune it back by about one-third. There are some plants that are the exception to this, such as the summer flowering butterfly bush, which you can be very aggressive with and cut down to about a foot and allow it to flush back and regrow.
The goal of pruning is to leave the plant looking as natural as possible. If you do over prune, don’t panic! Plants are more resilient than you might think.
When in doubt, don’t hesitate to give us a call. We’re here to help!
Want to stay on top of spring gardening tasks? Be sure to check out our Spring Checklist.
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